More Mexico Information
Reprinted from World is Round
MEXICO OVERLAND --copyright 1995 and 2001, Douglas Erickson (slightly
out of date, but nothing much changes in Mexico)
What has changed in Mexico in the last few years: a new president who
offers a real opportunity for progress, but an economy that still
struggles. The value of the dollar has risen steadily--good for
travelers; attitudes about Americans also have changed to some degree
following the passage of Proposition 187 in California in November 1994
and more recent border tightening. What has not changed: the warmth and
diversity of Mexico's people, the richness of their culture, the
abundance of natural beauty, and also the stigma and myths about
traveling in Mexico. Only the last factor is a potential drawback --
but, not really! Rumors and horror stories based on the reported
experiences of a friend of a friend, usually having occurred years ago,
still conjure up images of danger, corruption, and desperate poverty.
Driving through Mexico is one sure way to dispel such myths. It also can
be a grand and rewarding adventure.
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This is not to say that there is no danger or corruption or poverty.
Look around you in America; those things are here, too. When it comes to
safety, there are common sense rules to observe with respect to food,
water, and simple human interaction (i.e., courtesy). But for the
traveler who is willing to accept a few basic guidelines, Mexico offers
a wealth of culture and natural beauty -- from majestic mountains and
volcanoes to dry deserts; from dense jungle to vast expanses of white
sand beaches merging with the warm turquoise waters of the Caribbean or
emerald waves of the Gulf of Mexico; from Mayan ruins, some dating from
over 2000 years ago, and relatively new (300 to 400 years old) colonial
churches, which can be found in nearly every town and village, to modern
skyscrapers and posh resorts. |
Whether you seek to nourish your knowledge
of western history or long for seclusion in a tropical paradise, Mexico
is an ideal destination. And, whether you want to learn about the
country and its people firsthand or simply have complete freedom of
movement, driving is the ultimate way to go. This mode of transportation
to and through foreign countries is commonly referred to simply as going
"overland."
Entry into Mexico is relatively easy through any border crossing. For
a trip from the midwestern or western United States to the gulf coast
and Yucatan Peninsula, the town of Laredo, Texas is convenient. The
immigration and customs facilities in Nuevo Laredo, which is just across
the border, are well organized and efficiently run. On my crossing in
August 1994, the process of clearing immigration, customs, and securing
the mandatory permit for temporary importation of a vehicle took less
than thirty minutes. After the formal border formalities, an overland
traveler will encounter a checkpoint approximately twenty-one kilometers
into the country. At such checkpoints, customs officers verify that
drivers have secured the mandatory tourist cards and vehicle permits.
Occasionally, questions regarding the contents of a vehicle are asked,
but this type of inquiry is far more common (and serious) when entering
Mexico from Belize or Guatemala. Contrary to popular myth, most
officials have no interest in harassing "gringos." A genuine
smile and friendly "hola" from a traveler go a long way toward
ensuring minimal delays.
Travelers interested in laying on a beach and consuming quantities of
fresh seafood need not wait long. However, your speed once you cross
into Mexico is likely to be much slower than we are accustomed to
driving on American interstates. Making the gulf coast on day one would
require a very long day of driving. One potential stopover is at Linares,
in the state of Nuevo Leon, on Highway 85. Linares is an unassuming, but
thriving town, with pleasant hotels, authentic traditional food, and
loads of charm. Hotel Plaza Mira is one of the better choices for a
leisurely evening. With a swimming pool, secure parking, courteous
staff, and one of the best restaurants in town, the hotel is a
comfortable and welcome resting place, after your first brush with
border formalities and Mexican roads. (One serious disadvantage to
driving in Mexico is the passion of its communities for speed bumps, or
as they are known in this country, "topes." If there are any
worldwide statistics on speed bumps, surely Mexico has a greater number
(per capita, per mile, and total) than any other country. Sometimes they
are no more threatening than a wrinkle in a new pair of blue jeans; more
often, however, they resemble a steep curb. Eventually, you will come to
dread the thought, sight, or sound of "topes"!) One block from
the hotel is the town's central plaza, or zocalo. After dinner it is the
ideal spot for observing the townsfolk and letting your road weariness
mellow in the warm, gentle breeze blowing through the lush trees that
fill the park.
Continuing toward the coast, the next tempting stopover is Tampico.
This is a surprisingly hectic city, however, and it can be recommended
as a stop for only the most undaunted traveler. The city is large; the
streets are narrow; and traffic is always heavy, with an surplus of
impatient drivers. This is not to say that it is without virtues, but
whether they are worth the inconvenience is questionable. I was
fortunate in that I arrived late one summer night, after the evening
rush hour. Then I only had to battle, honk, and nudge my way through
traffic for three hours to reach the center of town and find parking.
For the traveler who wants to accept the challenge and explore this
city for himself or herself, accommodations at the Hotel Tampico are
comfortable and cheap, with plenty of colonial charm. The best places to
eat tend to be the small restaurants that line the congested city
streets near the hotel. Head for a place that has a good number of
locals. But don't expect Mexican food like you have had it in the
States. This is the first region where you may notice a dramatic change
in cuisine. Although it varies widely from region to region, here you
can still order things that sound like good ole Mexican-American food.
Just try not to have set expectations. The folks here are big on soups
("sopas"), and do not care for their food to be too spicy. The
food tends to be fresh and unique, and a nice change of pace.
An easy alternative to Tampico, and one that I highly recommend, is
Tuxpan. This small town sits just off the gulf coast on the Rio Tuxpan.
Budget travelers will be pleased to find the Hotel Riviera, which is on
the close end of town as they enter it coming from the highway. But
whether you are budget-minded or looking for luxury, a suitable hotel is
easy to find. Good restaurants abound in town. A short walk down past
the plaza reveals many choices. My favorite is Del Puerto. The seafood
is great and the plaza across the street provides an excellent vantage
for viewing Tuxpan residents busy with every day routines.
A short drive from any of several decent hotels in town delivers
beach goers to a long white sand beach, complete with hospitable cabanas
and basic food stalls where the stress of a long day on the road can be
eased by lounging on the clean white sand or frolicking in the warm
waters of the Gulf or by sipping a cold cerveza and nibbling on a
seafood cocktail. You might choose to sit in the shade and chat with a
local or one of the retired U.S. military types who live in the area at
El Arca. My choice was to sip a cold Dos Equiis after baking in the sun
for a couple hours. In fact, as I walked toward El Arca, which is a
small restaurant, I could almost taste it. The chief disadvantage of
expectations, of course, is having them dashed. In this case, my
ignorance of the law was the cause of the let down. It was two days
before the national elections, so no beer could be sold. Does this
policy lead to clearer thinking by the voters two days later? More
important, does anyone care if the tourists are thinking clearly? Ah
well, nothing like a cold Coca Cola to quench a sun-baked thirst.
When (or more likely, if) you tire of the beach, the house where
Fidel Castro spent a year planning his successful invasion of Cuba is a
fifteen cent boat ride across the river from town. In addition, the very
impressive ruins of El Tajin are within easy driving distance. It was en
route to El Tajin when I had my first brush with young entreprenuerism
in Mexico. Two ragamuffin type kids had set up their own toll road by
holding a string, punctuated with strips of red cloth, across the road.
For a small fee they would politely lower the string to allow cars to
pass. They also lowered the string in response to a revved engine or a
prolonged honk, though not quite as politely.
El Tajin was occupied between 50 A.D. and 1100 A.D., by a people
known today as the Totonacs. If you explore many Maya and Toltec
ruins, the uniqueness of El Tajin will become apparent. It is unlike
most other excavated ruins in Mexico. Even to the novice, the style is
distinct from both the Maya and Toltec architecture. The most impressive
structure is the Pyramid of El Tajin, or Pyramid of the Niches. If you
choose to visit the site, allow a solid three hours to wander the
grounds and visit the new museum. And by all means, get an early start.
El Tajin can be hot and humid in the afternoon.
Traveling through Mexico overland is a great experience, but it
requires a chunk of time. For those travelers with only a week or two to
spend in Mexico, Tuxpan or one of the numerous other small coastal
towns, or even the larger, colonial city of Veracruz may be good ending
points. Travelers who want to experience the best of what Mexico has to
offer, however, will continue on to the Yucatan Peninsula.
Although not as inexpensive as many other parts of the country,
whether you are on a budget or geared toward luxury, camping or
resorting for accommodations, the states of Yucatan and Quintana Roo
will not disappoint you. These states, in particular, blend the mystique
of ancient Maya and Toltec civilization and the lure of crystal clear
Caribbean waters and white sand beaches.
Merida, the capital of Yucatan, is clean, friendly, safe, and
culturally rich. Colonial churches, grand mansions, free concerts and
exhibitions, which are held nearly every night of the year, emphasize
the diversity and growing prosperity of the city. From Merida, the
ruins of Uxmal and Chichen Itza are easy day trips. The people here are
friendly and kind, although the friendliest folks tend to be the hammock
peddlers who will do their best to convince you in any of several
languages that you cannot go home without at least one of their
"best quality" hammocks. You may be surprised to hear
repeatedly that a peddler has made the long journey to Merida from his
village to sell the hammocks that his family has toiled for days to
make. The peddler may even have a photograph of his family hard at work.
I became suspicious one day when three different peddlers showed me a
photograph of the same family, each peddler claiming the family to be
his, although the family members had different names according to which
peddler was telling the story. Nevertheless, the hammocks are generally
of good quality. In particular, the ones made of sisal tend to hold up
well. And you really may be sorry if you return home without one. Budget
travelers need a good hammock because many of the budget hotels and
pensiones do not have a decent bed, but almost all of them have hammock
hooks.
Once you have had a good dose of culture and the city life, head
toward the Caribbean for your reward of white sand, beach front hotels,
cabanas, and restaurants, clear turquoise waters, gentle breezes, good
food, and tranquility. (The foregoing description does not apply to
Cancun, which has nothing to do with the culture and identity of Mexico.
Cancun is also the only place where I had problems with the policia, who
subtly presented me with the option of forfeiting my driver's license
for a few days or paying a "fine" to the officers on the spot
for an alleged infraction.)
Magnificent beaches are plentiful from Playa del Carmen to Tulum. In
Playa del Carmen, you can snorkel or sunbathe the day away, dance to
live music under the stars at the Blue Parrot, and stroll the miles of
beach. Playa del Carmen is overdeveloped for some tastes, but it serves
as an excellent base of operations. If you wish to avoid crowds, save a
lot of money, and do not mind a brief rain shower each day, late
September and October are ideal months to visit the Caribbean coast.
From Playa del Carmen, recommended side trips are to Cozumel and
Tulum. Cozumel is worth a day or two. Ferries leave from the dock in
Playa del Carmen regularly. Your car can be parked at either of two
guarded lots. Alternatively, you can take your car to the island by
catching the cargo ferry from Puerto Morelos. An excellent place to stay
and eat the night before such a venture is Hotel Posada Amor in Puerto
Morelos. Be warned, however, that regardless of what you may hear, the
cargo ferry is not reliable. It is, however, expensive and
time-consuming. You will lose at least half a day going each way and
there is no guarantee that you will be able to catch the ferry on any
particular day. It is cheaper and far more convenient to leave your
vehicle in Playa del Carmen and take the passenger ferry back and forth.
The island is famous for its snorkeling and diving. The novice and
the expert both will find adequate facilities for either activity.
Parque Chankanaab, just a few miles outside of town is a convenient,
safe place to snorkel. The park is clean, with facilities for eating and
renting equipment. It is particularly well suited for inexperienced
snorkelers and parents who want a safe place for the kids to "get
their feet wet." Nevertheless, Chankanaab has a remarkable
diversity and abundance of fish and sunken curiosities. Go early! Once
the park starts to get full, the water becomes murky due to the shear
number of people snorkeling.
Shopping is a popular activity on Cozumel. If you are traveling
overland, however, you may want to save your money to spend at one of
the roadside stalls on the mainland or in Merida where prices may be as
much as fifty percent lower than those to be found on Cozumel. Eating is
another popular distraction. For seafood, try La Choza (be sure to order
some tortilla soup), Plaza Leza, or Santiago's (where you will spend a
bit more). For a raucous meal, the famous Carlos & Charlie's is a
good bet. You may find the drinking games sponsored by this bar to be a
bit much, but in small doses, everyone seems to have a good time.
Budget travelers will find the Hotel Kary to be a refreshing change
from the standard budget places. You can choose to upgrade to an air
conditioned room for a couple bucks more than the standard ceiling fan,
or just jump into the clear pool in the inner courtyard. If money is no
obstacle, your choices on the island are limitless. (In Playa del
Carmen, the prices are lower for hotels, but not food, and the pace is a
little slower than on Cozumel.)
Along the coast from Playa del Carmen to Tulum, travelers can camp,
rent an apartment, or find anything from the most luxurious resort to
hammock hooks on the beach. Exploring this coast independently is the
only way to find your own little niche. With a little persistence, you
can find that perfect beach or hideaway. Unfortunately, this is changing
rapidly. The profiteers and developers are arriving at light speed. If
you want to experience the natural beauty of this region, you may not
have much time!
Tulum is a popular site for viewing the only known Maya city built on
the coast overlooking the ocean. These ruins are not broadly
representative of the culture or Mayan architecture, but they are unique
and worth a visit. After a quick examination of the small site, a
refreshing swim in the spectacular blue-green waters is memorable. Those
wishing to stay over in this area can camp or head for one of the
cabanas on the Boca Paila Peninsula. The best of the lot is Ana and
Jose's Cabanas. The separate cabana units are clean, quiet, and just a
few steps from the beach. The restaurant serves some of the best food
and coldest beer on the coast. Electricity may be available only from
5:30 to 10:30 p.m., but this inconvenience only adds to the romance.
A final stop on your tour of the Yucatan Peninsula might be a little
known place called Bacalar. Those who opt to rest in Bacalar for a day
or two are in for a treat. It hosts my favorite hotel of the Yucatan
Peninsula, Hotel Laguna. In addition to the good restaurant, clean
rooms, and friendly tree frogs, the hotel sits on the shore of a
spectacular bay known as La Laguna de Siete Colores ("The Lagoon of
Seven Colors"). Especially in the afternoon sun, it is easy to pick
out at least seven different variations of blue, green, and blue-green.
But the visual pleasure is nothing compared to simple, indescribably
refreshing experience of diving into the lagoon from the pastel-painted
dock at sunrise. Even travelers who appreciate the luxury of sleep will
unconsciously rise with the sun to take this exquisite plunge after they
have experienced it one time. The body awakens as the rising sun coaxes
the seven colors out of the water. Swimming or floating seems effortless
as you peer into the world that is crystal clear twenty feet below the
ripples of your dive. The water tastes sweet, and you can feel the
immense energy of the day as the sun continues its inevitable climb. As
the day continues, fishermen and jet skiers will occasionally whip along
the shore. But they have missed the most important moment of the day.
Good restaurants are in short supply in Bacalar. Nevertheless, this
town is another excellent base of operations. For those choosing simply
to rest in Bacalar, there is an historic site of limited significance in
the town itself, which stands in sharp contrast to the Mayan ruins, in
part because it is so new by comparison--a mere 300 years old. Fort San
Felipe was built by the Spanish in the 1600's. The exterior portions of
the fort have been restored. The only interior areas accessible for the
public house a small museum. Old relics, a soldier's skeleton, ancient
firearms, and a colorful mural are the few highlights to be seen. If you
choose to visit the fort, do so with low expectations. Otherwise, you
are likely to be disappointed.
Especially for the traveler who is ready to explore some of the more
obscure Mayan ruins, there are several day trips. A very short drive
from town is Kohunlich, which holds the spectacular Temple of the Masks.
[PHOTO: Known primarily for its Temple of the Masks, Kohunlich is an
easy drive from Bacalar.] The site is rather large and is being
simultaneously excavated and restored. The feature attraction is located
at the far end of the site. A moderately sized temple supports enormous
stone masks. On either side of the front staircase, masks can be found
at several levels. Kohunlich may have been occupied for over a thousand
years--a long time by any standard. The road leading to it is well
marked, although it is barely more than a lane wide and occasionally
there is traffic headed in the opposite direction. At the site itself,
the only company you are likely to encounter is the locals, who assist
in excavating the site, and wild toucans, which are plentiful in the
area. Keep your eyes to the sky if you want to catch a glimpse of the
toucans, however, as they do not seem to be fond of visitors. The locals
on the other hand are friendly and most willing to point out the
highlights.
And, if you have come this far, there are two more remote sets of
ruins just down the road. Both sites are further down Highway 186 toward
Escarcega. At Becan and Chicana, it would be unusual to find even a
worker wandering the grounds. (These areas are reputed to have a high
incidence of malaria. Travelers who are not taking prophylactics may be
better off foregoing these sites.) Becan is a large site.
Perhaps because so few people visit Becan and few of the structures are
restored, it is easy to lose one's self wandering among the ruins and
trying to imagine life as a Maya some 1500 years ago. And, this
particular site may date back over 2500 years. Chicana is comparable to
Tulum in terms of area to be covered in exploring its ruins. It is best
known for the small temple near the entrance to the site. The main
doorway into the temple is in the shape of a serpent's mouth.
With an early start, all three sites can be visited in a day from
Bacalar, or en route to Escarcega if you are headed back to the United
States or Merida, or to Guatemala and the rest of Central America, which
is another adventure altogether. Regardless of where your next stop may
be, don't be afraid to dispel the myths and experience firsthand the
wonder, the history, the culture, and the beauty that Mexico has to
offer.
Caveat: Please do not rely on the information in this article
to be accurate or current. Many things change over time and you should
do independent research for current information.
